Shiki is often the first word on the lips of local sushi purists, who swear that this small and unfussy Swillburg restaurant does raw fish better than anyone else in Rochester. Chef and owner Shigeru Tanaka forgoes the overloaded and Westernized rolls in favor of simpler maki, along with traditional appetizers like miso eggplant and various shumai, noodle soups, entrée combos, and, of course, elegant sushi and sashimi.